Oh Deer: Chased for Food in Nara

Tags

, ,

Mrs. Selfish and I decided very early on that a trip to Nara was necessary as part of our long stay in Kyoto.  Nara was the capital of Japan prior to Kyoto, though only for a period of 70 years. It does have some pretty magnificent sites, however, including the largest Buddha in Japan and a shrine with over 3000 stone lanterns.

It also has deer – lots of deer.  According to legend, the deer are heavenly protectors of Nara, and enjoy a special status.  What it means in practice is the Nara parks are packed with deer and people selling deer merchandise and deer food.

It also means the deer are very aggressive.

Continue reading

The Most Expensive and Most Difficult to Get Into Sight in Kyoto: The Moss Temple

Tags

, , , , , , ,

Since Mr. Selfish and I were in Kyoto for three weeks, we wanted to visit some of the more obscure and difficult sights. The most expensive and most difficult to get into sight in Kyoto is the Moss Temple, which is also known as Saihoji Temple or Kokedera. Admission costs a whopping 3,000 yen (~$30 USD).

You can only visit the Moss Temple by mailing a special reply postcard requesting a reservation at least 7 days in advance. Your postcard should indicate: (1) your name and address, (2) the number of people in your party, and (3) the date(s) on which you are available to visit the temple. Your postcard should also include a stamped and self-addressed postcard, which the temple will return to you with your scheduled date and time. In Japan, you can request this type of special reply postcard at the post office; it is known as ofuku hagaki. The Moss temple’s address is: Saihoji Temple, 56 Jingatani-cho, Matsuo, Nishikyo-ku, Kyoto 615-8286, Japan.

Moss Temple 02

Continue reading

Japanese Curry: A Love Letter

Tags

, ,

Before heading to Japan, Mrs. Selfish and I had built up a healthy fascination with Japanese curry. If you’ve never had it before, Japanese curry is completely different from your Thai or Indian curries.  It’s thick, savory, and packed with umami.  It’s also typically not that spicy.

Since it’s rarely made from scratch (even in Japan), you can get a decent approximation at your local grocery store in the foreign aisle. We typically make it with chicken, potatoes, carrots, and onions – though you can add whatever you want.

Golden Curry

Ah Golden Curry, the old standby.

Just keep in mind, if you use the full box you’ll end with over 8 portions of curry.  And that stuff gets old after a few days.  Not so with Japanese curry in Japan – I could eat that stuff from dusk until dawn without stopping.

Continue reading

Hiding from the Rain in the Kyoto International Manga Museum

Tags

, , , , , , , , , ,

My good friend, Devon, recommended a temporary exhibit at the Kyoto International Manga Museum to me. I’m not really into manga (Japanese comics). However, due to a confluence of circumstances (proximity of the museum to an udon restaurant, the fact that Mr. Selfish’s sister was visiting, and the constant rain that day), we actually went to the manga museum.

Surprisingly, I actually enjoyed the museum. The museum has three stories and is primarily a huge manga library. There were tons of locals, including families and couples, reading manga. The library section also contains an exhibit on the history of manga, which was quite well-done. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed inside. I did sneak a couple though.

Manga 01Manga 02Manga 03Manga 04

Continue reading

The Magnificent Osaka Unlimited Pass

Tags

, ,

Since we were staying in Kyoto, Mrs. Selfish and I decided a day trip to Osaka was in order.  Osaka is only a 30 – 45 minute train ride away from Kyoto and is accessible by metro for the relatively low price of 450 yen.

Historically a commercial center, Osaka was known as “Japan’s kitchen” during the Edo period, and thus has a number of food specialties. Being a castle buff, I also really wanted to see Osaka Castle after viewing the pictures online.

The Osaka Unlimited Pass

After arriving in Osaka, Mrs. Selfish and I immediately sought out the Osaka Unlimited Pass, which we picked up at the train station’s information desk.  At 2000 yen (~$20) the pass gives you unlimited use of Osaka’s public transportation system, and gets you into over 28 attractions for free, and others with a heavy discount.

The pass comes with a number of tiny tickets that you tear out at each attraction, and a pass for trains/buses.  Since we planned on hitting at least 4 attractions, this ended up saving us close to $25 per person.

Continue reading

Enjoying Desserts and Coffee in Kyoto

Tags

, , , , , , , , , , , ,

Mr. Selfish and I have quite a sweet tooth. We learned while in Kyoto that the Japanese also have an affinity for sweet desserts.

First, we went to Kinako (祇園きなな), which is located at Kyoto-shi, Higashiyama-ku, Gion-machi Minami-gawa 570-119, for the best soy bean ice cream ever. It was quite simple but smooth and packed full of flavor. We also had Berry Berry Kinana parfait, which was visually pretty but had too many different components that were all competing with one another. I found the soy bean ice cream to be more than sufficient for my ice cream palate.

Coffee and Desserts 01Coffee and Desserts 02Coffee and Desserts 03Coffee and Desserts 04Coffee and Desserts 05Coffee and Desserts 06

Continue reading

Exploring Higashiyama and the Kiyomizu Shrine

Tags

, , , ,

When looking at apartments in Kyoto, Mrs. Selfish and I decided we wanted to stay somewhere that was decidedly old world.  After all, we were staying in one of Japan’s oldest cities, so what was the point of renting a sleek apartment?

In the end we settled on a place in the Higashiyama ward, a culturally protected area with tons of traditional style buildings.  While the apartment itself was not in the traditional style, we were in an excellent location to explore some of Kyoto’s more beautiful (if not heavily touristed) streets.

Pagoda 02

Continue reading

Visiting the Homes of the Emperor and the Shogun: Kyoto Imperial Palace and Nijo Castle

Tags

, , , , , ,

Mr. Selfish and I decided to visit the Imperial Palace and Nijo Castle during our stay in Kyoto. We didn’t really know much Japanese history but it was still interesting to see the palace and the castle.

Apparently, in 1600, the Tokugawa Shogunate seized power and established a military government in what is now Tokyo. During this time period, the role of the emperor was largely symbolic since the shogun controlled foreign policy, the military, and feudal patronage. Although the government was in Tokyo, the shoguns still frequented Kyoto since it was home to the Imperial Court. Hence, the shoguns built Nijo Castle, which is quite close to the Imperial Palace.

Mr. Selfish and I toured the Imperial Palace first. You can only visit the palace through a tour, which is offered in English or Japanese. You have to bring your passport to the tour office and sign up. We were lucky in that we showed up about 20 minutes before an English tour was to begin and were able to join that tour.

Imperial Palace 07

Continue reading

Yummy Yakitori and Karaage Craziness in Kyoto

Tags

, , , , , , , , ,

During our first trip to Japan, Mr. Selfish and I learned that Japanese food is quite diverse. We sampled yakitori, karaage, takoyaki, ramen, udon, soba, okonomiyaki, etc. Unfortunately, the majority of Japanese restaurants in the States only serve sushi and some form of teriyaki.

This post is dedicated to the wonderful chicken that we had in Kyoto, specifically the yakitori (grilled chicken on skewers) and karaage (deep fried chicken). I never knew that chicken could be so tender and delicious until I had it in Japan.

Our favorite yakitori place is called Chabuya (炭火焼鳥ちゃぶや), located at 310−3 Uradeyamacho. We ate here in 2010 with some locals and knew that we had to return during our selfish year. It is a small, unassuming place that is frequented by locals. Luckily, they have an English menu (though we never saw any other English speakers the two times we were there).

Chicken 17

Continue reading

Visiting Kyoto’s Free Shrines

Tags

, , , , , , , ,

As the long time capital of Japan, Kyoto has no shortage of sites.  Designated as a UNESCO world-heritage site, Kyoto actually has 17 UNESCO sites within city bounds, and contains roughly 20% of Japan’s National Treasures.

But a lot of these sites cost money – usually 300 – 500 yen a piece, which can add up quickly – especially once you factor in transportation.  With that in mind, Mrs. Selfish and I quickly set out to find the best free sites Kyoto had to offer.

Heian Shrine 08

Continue reading

Walking Along the Philosopher’s Path in Kyoto

Tags

, , , , , , , , , ,

When Mr. Selfish and I visited Japan in 2010, we fell in love with Kyoto and knew that we had to come back. We accordingly spent three wonderful weeks in Kyoto. The city has an astounding amount of places to visit – in fact, 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines. Not surprisingly, we never ran out of things to see.

One of our favorite places in Kyoto was the Philosopher’s Path, which is a two-kilometer stone path that Nishida Kitaro, one of Japan’s most famous philosophers, supposedly walked every day to meditate. The path starts at Ginkakuji, which is also known as the Silver Pavilion, and ends at Nanzenji Temple.

The Silver Pavilion, for which admission is 500 yen, is not actually covered in silver. Its name was meant to contrast it from the Golden Pavilion, which is covered in gold. The Silver Pavilion is located next to a dry sand garden. Mr. Selfish and I sat and admired the view of the Silver Pavilion from the sand garden.

Silver Pavilion 06Silver Pavilion 02Silver Pavilion 03

Continue reading

Relaxing at Ryokan Sanga

Tags

, , , ,

During our previous trip to Japan, Mrs. Selfish and I had the pleasure of staying at a ryokan in Hakone.  A Ryokan is a traditional Japanese hotel, known for a three things: kaiseki meals, traditional rooms and garb, and onsen.

Last time we only stayed for one night, so this time around we decided to splurg and stay for two nights at the Ryokan Sanga.

Continue reading

Unplugging in Kurokawa Onsen Town

Tags

, , , , ,

Bidding a wary goodbye to the Grand Hyatt Fukuoka, Mrs. Selfish and I packed our bags and prepared for 2 days in charming Kurokawa Onsen Town.

The Japanese take their hot springs very seriously, and onsen bathing is a tradition that goes back several centuries.  Over the years, the experience has become more and more modernized, and people have taken to bath houses as well, so we were particularly excited to go to Kurokawa Onsen Town.

While everyone else modernized, Kurokawa stuck with preserving tradition, and the result is a stunning, traditional town with dozens of ryokans and onsens in an spiritually soothing environment.

This is a place you come to relax.

Continue reading

Use British Airways Avios to Save Major Ca$h

Tags

, , , ,

Since starting our Selfish Year voyage, Mrs. Selfish and I have flown a total of 58 flights, 28 of which we paid for with points.  The remainder of the flights we paid for with cash, and while none were completely cringe worthy (other than, perhaps the Air Tahiti flight to Bora Bora), they added up to a sizeable sum when combined.

So when I started looking into booking our additional flights in Japan I turned to an often under-appreciated currency – British Airline’s Avios miles.

ba-award-chart

When to use Avios Miles

British Airway’s Avios miles are almost completely worthless when flying British Airways themselves, thanks to their extremely high fuel surcharges.

However, they are superb points for saving money on short haul flights, especially if your flight matches the following criteria:

1. A short distance flight, ideally less than 1150 miles, or better yet, less than 650 miles. As always, use a tool like the Great Circle Mapper to determine the distance between city pairs.

2. Are you flying in a market where British Airways has strong partners? For instance, are you flying Japan Airlines in Japan? Quantas in Australia? American Airlines in the States?

3. Is the market you’re flying in expensive? Japan is a really good fit here, as is America in some cases.

Continue reading

One Night to Sample the Delicious Food in Fukuoka

Tags

, , , , , , , , , , ,

Upon leaving Seoul, Mr. Selfish and I flew to Fukuoka, which is the sixth largest city in Japan and is located about 680 miles southwest of Tokyo. We had read online that tonkotsu ramen originated from Fukuoka and knew that we had to try it there.

Tonkotsu ramen is made from boiling pork bones, fat, and collagen for an extended period of time. The broth is typically thick and creamy. The first place we tried was Ichiran (1-2-22, Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka). Ordering your ramen at Ichiran is an interesting process devoid of all human contact. First, you pick what you want to order and pay for it at a vending machine.

Fukuoka 028Fukuoka 029Fukuoka 030Vending Machine

Continue reading